In August 2007, the United States Green Building Council updated the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) scoring system criteria. The new criterion calls for all LEED projects to achieve a minimum of two “Optimizing Energy Performance” points. The effect of the change is to reduce energy in new LEED buildings by a minimum of 14% above ASHRAE Standard 90.1 and 7% for existing building renovations.
The criteria also gives up to 8 points for buildings that can show even better energy performance than the minimum. Conceivable a new building showing a 35% better energy performance can get all 8 points.
What makes this significant is that 35% better energy performance may be achieved simply with and EIFS liquid applied air and water-resistive barrier. And any shortcomings to that goal may be made up with the insulation value that can be put over the water-resistive barrier.
Reviewed on Customer Lobby
“We hired Worldgate Plaster & Stucco Co. to apply stucco on the back of our house and it looks really nice. We had to wait a few extra weeks for them to finish the job because of the weather, but they were very friendly and professional, we enjoyed having them in our home.
We had been wanting to get this done for awhile so we’re satisfied with the results and would recommend them if you’re looking to get a stucco wall placed inside or outside of your home.”
What’s really cool about the second generation of EIFS (with drainage) is that the liquid applied water-resistive barrier that is included as part of a moisture management strategy is also a very effective air barrier.
In no time is there any worry for reverse overlaps, tears, or fastener punctures commonly associated with sheet applied house wraps or building papers. This is because the WRB is completely monolithic and the EIFS is installed with adhesive. This is important because it has been demonstrated by the National Institute of Standards that an effective air barrier on a typical 24,000 square foot office building in Minneapolis can reduce gas consumption for heating by 43% and reduce electric use by as much as 33%.
In 2003, Santa Fe Architect Ed Mazria authored a ground shaking assessment of the construction industry, when he reasoned that 48% of our energy is consumed by our buildings. Taking this a step further, Mazria correlated this reasoning to global warming and determined that construction was also responsible for 46% of our nation’s carbon emissions output.
In 2006, Mazria challenged the construction industry and, in particular, architects to design new buildings to use 50% less energy than the regional average for that building type. Subsequently, that energy efficiency standard would be increased exponentially over the years so that by 2030 all buildings are essentially carbon-neutral.
How do we get to the 50% target? Mazria has suggested a number of strategies: The first relies on no cost or low cost savings, such as how the building is orientated, passive heating and cooling, natural ventilation, glazing, choice of equipment and site shading. The second includes photovoltaic arrays to encompass heating and hot water needs, ground source heat pumps, triple glazing and super-insulation. The third strategy is to buy clean power, generated by wind or solar generated supply sources.
Focusing in on the second strategy, EIFS can make a strong case for its superlative insulation value. Graph 1 illustrates a couple of examples of some thermally challenged wall assemblies. What is demonstrated is that the actual thermal resistance (whole wall) is altered because of the thermal bridges created by the framing and the interfaces between windows, floors, ceilings, etc. Adding EIFS to these walls, some distinct properties evolve: Much like a thermal blanket it covers and eliminates the thermal bridging, while the R-value remains a constant 3.85/inch of thickness. Another added benefit is that it has been estimated that the effective application of EPS insulation could cut carbon dioxide emissions in buildings by up to 50%.
Take a look at this awesome before and after of a recent chimney repair. Over time, the stucco can begin to peel and break away from the structure; a stucco repair is the way to go.
Reviewed on Customer Lobby
“Worldgate Plaster & Stucco was very responsive, they were willing to meet in person several times before the project and after. They were very responsive on email and he addressed any concerns I had. They did some replacing of stucco and did a great job.”
It’s not Christmas without a twinkling display of lights around your house. Make the task of hanging outdoor lights easier with clips, hooks and adhesives designed for the job. This is especially useful when you can’t or don’t want to drill holes in stucco, brick or stone. Light clips and outdoor adhesives are available at home improvement stores. Once you’ve installed the clips you can use them over and over again in the years to come, so next year’s light-hanging job will go even faster.
Attaching Light Strings with Clips
- Measure the perimeter you want to decorate with lights, such as your home’s roof line, porch overhang or around window frames. Purchase enough light strings to comfortably cover this distance. Take into account the color pattern you plan to display, such as using only one color, alternating two colors or randomly mixing colors.
- Purchase a sufficient number of clips to cover this distance with one clip every 6 to 8 inches, depending on the type of lights you will be using. Bulb-type lights, known as C7 or C9 bulbs, use larger clips than mini-lights or icicle lights.
- Secure the clips, using outdoor adhesive, along the perimeter to be decorated. Follow product directions for applying the adhesive and allow sufficient time for the adhesive to cure.
- Test your light string to make sure there are no missing or burned-out bulbs. You can do this indoors by plugging the lights into an electric outlet. Replace bulbs as needed, then unplug the lights and take them outside.
- Arrange the lights along the line of clips, placing the cord in each clip as you go.
- Plug the light string into an outdoor outlet, using an extension cord if needed.
Attaching Light Strings with a Hot Glue Gun
- Measure the distance needed and unroll the light string. Check to make sure there are no missing or burned-out bulbs, and replace them if needed.
- Apply a line of hot glue along the side of the first bulb socket. Hold the glued side of the socket against the wall or overhang and keep it in place for several seconds to allow the glue to cool and set.
- Continue until all of the bulb sockets are glued in the desired positions. Use an outdoor extension cord so you can take the hot glue gun up on the ladder with you.
- Plug the light string into an outdoor socket. If you use the type of cord that you cut to your measure, apply a male socket to one end and a female socket to the other end before you do this.
Everything you’ve always wanted to know about paint color in one place. From how to choose a paint color for every room in your house to tips for maintaining the paint on your walls, we’ve got you covered. View the slideshow here!
In noisy neighborhoods or big households, controlling the noise level in your home can be an issue. Fortunately, there are many options for home sound-reducing in a variety of price ranges to help you with this problem. Many sound-reducing coatings can adhere to concrete block walls, enabling you to easily convert a room like a basement to a useful space for practicing an instrument, watching movies and other activities that generate noise. Many of these options are simple enough to do yourself.
Sound-reducing paint is a suitable DIY option for controlling the noise level in a room made from concrete block walls. This is the least difficult option because sound-reducing paint is applied just like regular paint and is usually latex-based, cleaning up with soap and water. Sound-reducing paints are best used to control mid-range sounds, or normal levels of human speech. Most sound-reducing paints are designed for interior wall surfaces, such as drywall, so you may need to prime your walls before painting for best results.
Polyurethanes and other resins with sound-reducing properties are available as coatings. As with sound-reducing paint, it is important to purchase a polyurethane designed specifically for sound-reduction. Polyurethanes and other resins adhere well to concrete surfaces and are noted for durability. Many can also be applied like wall paint. However, all resins require mixing two compounds, which then react to form the resin. This makes application difficult because time is an issue, and the fumes from applying resins can be dangerous.
Stucco is a cement plaster normally used as a coating on the exterior of a home. However, the highly textured surface of stucco makes it an excellent choice for absorbing sound in a home. Stucco adheres well to concrete blocks and can be textured in a way to suit almost any decorative taste. However, this is a more challenging option and may require the help of a professional for best results.
Some manufacturers make sound-reducing wallpapers, which are thicker than regular wallpaper and are highly insulated. While these are technically wallpapers, they can require special adhesives to attach to walls. There are many options for adhesives that also have sound-reducing qualities. It is important, however, to choose an adhesive that is designed to stick to concrete. In addition, sound-reducing wallpapers are often designed to be painted over or wallpapered over, so you are not limited by the colors provided by the manufacturer.